Shaun “The Professional” Tomson
Shaun Tomson was a South African professional surfer in the 70’s and 80’s. Considered by many the best and most influential surfer of the “free ride” era. Tomson was a leading part of the new breed in 1975 that fueled the beginning of professional surfing, as documented in the classic surf documentary Bustin’ Down The Door. He won the world title in 1977. Currently he is a businessman, motivational speaker and author.
Surfer’s Code – 12 simple rules for riding through life (updated edition)
What: Tomson weaves personal life lessons with episodes from his surfing and personal life.
For: Everyone (Tomson wrote this book with the idea of a parent passing it on to a child)
3 out of 5 stars Good. Worthwhile.
Uncertainty of the ocean and life
Uncertainty is a trait surfing and life have in common and it runs through this book from beginning to end. What waves will the ocean bring today? What will come our way? Every moment holds the possibility of failure and tragedy, success and happiness.
Tomson relives many great moments from his career, but also just time spent in the water surfing. He clearly loves surfing and the ocean.
Tragedy Strikes
Tomson wrote this book with his 15 year old son in mind. This book was meant to be passed on from a parent to a child. As the book went to first printing his young son unexpectedly died in a schoolboy accident.
In the recently added epilogue Tomson relates how he and is wife dealt with the tragedy. Gravitas hangs over these 12 rules in a way Tomson could never have imagined as he was writing it. This book is worthwhile on many levels. Recommended. (make sure you get this updated edition)
Chapters at a glance
[12 simple rules for riding through life]
I WILL NEVER TURN MY BACK ON THE OCEAN
I WILL PADDLE AROUND THE IMPACT ZONE
I WILL TAKE THE DROP WITH COMMITMENT
I WILL NEVER FIGHT A RIP TIDE
I WILL ALWAYS PADDLE BACK OUT
I WILL WATCH OUT FOR OTHER SURFERS
THERE WILL ALWAYS BE ANOTHER WAVE
I WILL ALWAYS RIDE INTO SHORE
I WILL PASS ALONG MY STOKE
I WILL CATCH A WAVE EVERY DAY
ALL SURFERS ARE JOINED BY ONE OCEAN
I WILL HONOR THE SPORT OF KINGS
EPILOGUE
AFTERWORD – THE LIGHT SHINES AHEAD
Thank you Shaun,
I’ve observed & appreciated your contribution & roll model example to so many all these years.
My sincere condolances go
to you and your family with the tragic loss of your son.
Kind wishes,
Geoff Orr and family
NZ’er manufacturing the brand ‘ Hawaiian Wetsuits ‘ in the AlaMoana business district from the late 70’s into the early 80’s